Not many young people today practice subsistence gardening, living off the harvest of their garden throughout the year. However, there are several in the older generations who maintain gardens and preserve their produce every year.

Earline Granier of Birch Tree and Marguerite Wehmer of Willow Springs are long-time subsistence gardeners.

Wehmer’s parents moved onto the property where she currently lives in 1937, purchasing it in 1941. Marguerite and her husband, Bob, bought it from her parents in 1954.

“When my parents lived here and I was growing up, they always put out a garden, not a very big one, and raised chickens,” recalled Wehmer. “My brother Claude raised a cow and sold milk as part of an FFA project. He also had a hog for a project.

“Bob started in planting fruit trees when we bought it,” she added.

Granier and her husband Larry Rebardie, along with their three sons, moved to their land near the Oregon and Shannon county lines in May 1971.

“My dad came up and helped plant a garden that first summer,” said Granier. “We planted everything like we did in Louisiana.”

As the years have passed, both women have learned when and what to plant where. They say it is fairly easy to grow green beans, cucumbers, squash, tomatoes and more.

To get started, consider where you will put the garden.

“If you are going to put out a garden, put it in new ground,” said Wehmer.

Granier added that vegetable plants need sun to grow, so don’t plant in the shade and expect a great crop.

“Rocks grow in the Ozark hills. You can pick up buckets after you till and the next time you till there will be rocks again,” shared Wehmer, who also recommends moving your garden to a different spot every three years.

To fertilize the soil, both women noted that manure, particularly horse or cow, should be added as you till in the spring. If you don’t have manure, a 13-13-13 fertilizer may be used. Lime may also be used to give the soil nutrients.

“Put lime on the garden in the fall, so it will break down over the winter months,” said Granier. “In spring, then you can put in manure and till it. If you put them in at the same time, the two will combine and create ammonia, which will kill the plants.”

The women explained that there are crops that can be planted in the spring and fall and warm crops that should be planted as summer approaches.

“First, plant onions, new potatoes, beets, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, radishes and turnips (cold crops) in the spring,” said Wehmer. “At the first of May, put out green beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, squash, peppers, corn, egg plants and any other warm crops. By then, you typically will no longer have frost.”

If the temperature gets high when plants are blooming, expect the blooms to fall off. “I remember Bob saying when they bloom and it gets over 90 degrees, the blooms will fall off,” said Wehmer. “That’s what they did this year. If it gets cool, then they will bloom again.”

Wehmer noted there are some additional crops you should plant near the end of June or first of July.

“Pumpkins need to be planted by the Fourth of July,” said Wehmer. “For fun at the end of June, no later than July 4, you can plant mini-pumpkins or gourds on a fence, especially where there are kids. They love to watch them grow.”

Making sure plants have water is an essential part of gardening.

“In any garden, you need about an inch of rain a week,” said Wehmer. “If the good Lord provides it, that’s great. If not, you will need to water.

“I recommend using soaker hoses laid in and around the plants,” added Wehmer.

Granier cautioned against watering too late in the evening, which could cause some plants or produce to rot.

To prevent bottom rot in tomatoes, mix some powdered milk with water and work it into the ground to treat or prevent rot.

“You could also take your milk jug as you finish the gallon, add a little water and pour it on the plants,” said Granier.

For controlling insects, Sevin dust or spray is recommended by both Granier and Wehmer.

Wehmer also recommended planting marigolds, especially around tomatoes.

“Aphids don’t like the marigolds and won’t get on the tomatoes,” said Wehmer.

Granier shared a recipe for a homemade pest control spray that she uses.

“A little cayenne pepper, one tablespoon caster oil and dish soap mixed with water and sprayed on plants,” said Granier.

Wehmer noted that she also contends with birds for her fruit crops. She has been known to use netting and fireworks to discourage them. Scarecrows, BB guns and the like are also used frequently in the Ozarks.

“If you live outside of town, you may have to do something to deal with rabbits, deer, armadillos, ground hogs and other varmints,” said Wehmer.

Granier, who lives quite a ways from town, has fenced in her garden and put a foot or two of tin or metal on the ground around the fence, which she says ground hogs and armadillos will not bury under.

Regarding fertilizing plants, avoid fertilizing too early or too much.

“You shouldn’t give plants fertilizer until they begin producing,” advised Granier.

“It takes 60 days for green beans to start producing and tomatoes take 90 days,” reminded Wehmer.

As plants begin to grow, encourage them to grow upward. Wehmer and Granier recommend using trellises or other means of support for green beans, cucumbers and tomatoes.

“When cucumbers lay on the ground and it rains, they rot,” said Wehmer.

“They are easier to see and pick when they are grown on a trellis or fencing wire,” added Granier.

Granier noted that on plants like okra, you can increase production by cutting off the limbs below where current produce is growing. Keep doing this as the plant grows up and produces more.

Granier recommended using string, pantyhose and the like to support garden fruit and vegetables as they grow.

“Use pantyhose or string a sling to hold up cantaloupe or other fruit,” said Granier. “You can use it to tie up main stems on tomatoes too.”

Weeding must be done to maintain healthy plants.

“Be prepared to do lots of weeding, because the weeds will grow faster than the plants. If you don’t like to weed, don’t plant a garden,” advised Wehmer. “You can either weed by hand or by a pointed hoe every day or so.”

To cut down on weeds, place newspapers, mulch or other items between rows.

“I like to use old carpets between rows,” noted Wehmer.

“Anyone who has a desire and a good strong back can raise a garden,” said Wehmer. “It will just take some time and effort.”

Wehmer’s husband, Bob, enjoyed raising fruit on their land, and she and her sons have carried on the tradition.

“Bob started in planting fruit trees when we bought the place,” said Wehmer.

He had quite an orchard at one time, but several of the fruit trees have been removed in recent years.

“Six or seven years ago, my son Dave helped me take out a lot of the trees planted in the 1950s,” explained Wehmer. “I’ve got it down to what I can harvest and weed.”

She still harvests grapes, red raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, apples, pecans, walnuts and more.

For those considering fruit crops, Wehmer recommends having a permanent, long-term location.

“You should own your own land, because it will be an investment of time and money,” said Wehmer.

For bush crops, many take at least a year after planting to produce fruit.

Tree fruit can take longer to cultivate and become good producers.

“For instance, it takes about 20 years for a pecan tree to produce well,” said Wehmer.

Wehmer recommended planting at least 10 bushes of each variety of fruit.

“Plant about 10 bushes of blackberries, gooseberries, raspberries and Concord grapes,” said Wehmer. “They will grow and be enough for a family.”

When it comes to strawberries, however, Wehmer suggests planting plenty or planning to deal with birds.

“I wouldn’t recommend putting out 25 strawberry plants, because the birds will eat them,” said Wehmer. “You need to put out a large patch or do something to protect them from the birds.”

Birds are a common enemy when growing berries.

“I have more problems with birds. They will ruin a berry crop. You can net your berry crop to prevent them from eating your berries,” said Wehmer.

As for fruit trees, Wehmer stated, “Bob always said plant semi-dwarf trees for a family. Follow the University Extension guide on spraying fruit trees.”

The Extension’s 11-page guide, “Fruit Spray Schedules for the Homeowner” (G6010), is available online at http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6010. The guide discusses insect and disease control through the proper timing of pesticide applications.

For more information on gardening or growing fruit, visit the University of Missouri Extension website at http://extension.missouri.edu/. Select the lawn and garden topic button near the top of the page, then select “Vegetables” for vegetable gardening tips or “Fruit” for fruit growing guidance.